Love notes from the Isles of Scilly

The thick clouds that had laid heavy in the skies on the journey down to the southern most tip of the main land of the UK parted late afternoon as we began to board our flight to the Isles of Scilly. A mere 23 miles off the coast of Cornwall and visible from the mainland on a clear day, the Isles of Scilly is an archipelago of over 140 islands. With only five of those islands inhabited the place is a haven for wildlife to live undisturbed. Our expectations were minimal for our trip away, the first trip since the before times, we sought peace and beauty and not much else.

The Isles of Scilly have the distinct feeling of being untouched, with nature very much the driving force on the islands. From the tall wind breaking field verges to the lichen covered everything, it is clear that those that live on these islands work alongside the natural forces of the world rather than against them. Gardens are untamed and relaxed, the tides and the winds drive the structure of the days and when we step into the frigid cold waters there is an acute awareness that we are stepping onto another's space as the heads of seals bob along the horizon close enough to make the details of their wiry whiskers.

Our days are spent cycling, walking and swimming. We haven’t been in a car for over a week by the time we leave and that feels wonderful and liberating all at the same time. Each corner we turn, cove we stumble across and hill we climb reveals a new vista to stand in awe at. With the sea never more than a ten minute walk away we are calmed by the lap of the waves and the rush of the winds. On the occasions that the sun does appear, we are graced with those sparkly turquoise waters that draw us to holidaying here. The white sand floor of the sea bed is interspersed with waving seaweed strands, pulsating together in a mesmerising manner. We spend many moments simply gazing.

Honesty boxes abound across all the islands and eggs, vegetables, chill jams and cheese are picked up during the day to take back to the shepherds hut for a simple dinner for two. It’s amazing how freeing life is when choice is taken away from you. There is the sense of a strong moral code here on the island, an understanding of the hard work gone into growing or making the items for sale on the side of the road and change is often offered to those who need it, on a trusted basis. I pick up a bunch of narcissi - an unexpected joy in October - and the heady scent of them fills the hut til the day we leave. Many bulbs are purchased to take home in anticipation of a garden and home filled with the smells of Scilly isles come February and beyond. 

We walk, walk further than we have in a long long time and on the final day, after circling the island, pausing only to refuel and cool off in the sea, we both comment on how calm we feel. We discuss how walking is good for the mind, the body and the soul. How we need to do more of it and how starting the day with a walk is the way we will strive to begin each day from now on. And we make plans to return, with our boys to take in more of this unspoilt space in the world.

Sharing the love of the places we went and people we met:

Windmill95 - the most beautiful shepherds on the more remote northern side of St Mary’s

Tresco Abbey Gardens - incredibly inspiring tropical gardens with resident red squirrels

Juliets Garden - cream teas with sea views for miles

St Martins Vineyard - micro winery with enviable compost bins (yes this was my main take out!)

Little Bay St Martins - White sand beaches and cold swims with seals a stones throw away

Tresco Ruin Beach Cafe - kind accommodating service set in a tucked away garden right on the beach. Finish the meal with a swim in the crystal clear water below